A pizza can bring two cities closer together. At Mattarello in Ridgewood, every bite took me back to Italy.
By Nicolò Di Stefano
Some flavors are familiar before you can even describe them. They awaken memories, stir a sense of belonging, and turn an everyday moment into something personal. When I tasted the pizza at Mattarello in New York, I immediately thought of Rome. With every bite, that feeling grew stronger: for a few moments, Italy felt close again.
Behind this pizzeria in Ridgewood, Queens, is Fabrizio Fragola, who was born and raised in Rome. His relationship with pizza began during summers spent at his uncle’s pizzeria, first watching and later joining in the work. His career took him through restaurants in Italy, Spain, England, and eventually New York, before he brought his own vision to life: Mattarello.
Fabrizio is also a dear friend, something I am happy to acknowledge openly. Knowing the person behind a business offers a deeper understanding of its choices, the dedication involved, and what that place means to its creator. But tasting the pizza was what made this story, for me, worth telling.
As an Italian, I bring a lifetime of memories and expectations to the table. Pizza belongs to that emotional heritage we each carry through textures, aromas, and flavors. At Mattarello, I rediscovered that familiarity: the immediate pleasure of something that feels like home, even thousands of miles away.
The choice of ingredients plays a central role in the experience. High-quality flours and Italian extra virgin olive oil from Tuscany reflect an attention to detail that begins with the foundations. These essential ingredients give the pizza its character. For me, this is where a memorable pizza begins: with the care devoted to everything that supports each bite.
The preparation reflects that same attention. According to the pizzeria’s profile on the NYC Pizza Week website, its high-hydration dough undergoes a slow fermentation lasting between 24 and 72 hours, a process that helps develop its texture and structure.
Mattarello participated in the inaugural NYC Pizza Week, held from September 20 through October 4, 2026, with “Roman Holiday,” a slice featuring roasted potatoes and house-made porchetta. The name seems to capture the journey its food evokes. The event, also covered by Time Out, celebrated independent pizzerias across the city.
In a city where pizza is part of everyday life, earning a lasting place in someone’s memory means something. What I remember most is that feeling of returning: eating in New York and finding myself back in Rome, with an ease that genuinely moved me.
That is why I can write this without hesitation, as a personal judgment informed by all my Italian expectations: for me, Mattarello serves the best pizza in New York.
Because after tasting it, I was already looking forward to going back.
Mattarello is located at 60-48 Myrtle Avenue in Ridgewood, Queens. Discover more about its story and offerings at mattarellony.com.
Editor’s Note
As an Italian living in New York, I sometimes find that the shortest way home is through a familiar flavor. My experience at Mattarello Pizzeria in Ridgewood, Queens, was exactly that: every bite brought me closer to Rome and to the simple pleasure of pizza made with care.
Fabrizio Fragola is a dear friend, and sharing that connection matters to me. Seeing him bring his Roman roots to New York makes this story especially personal. What stayed with me, however, was the pizza itself—the quality of the ingredients, the attention to the dough, and the feeling that I wanted to return before I had even finished.
For me, Mattarello serves the best pizza in New York. That is my personal appreciation, shaped by my Italian palate and by a meal that made me feel at home.
Leave a Reply